Sunday 17 April 2011

Back from Varanasi

Ship laden with cremation ashes to be deposited in the Ganges River

At the confluence of the Ganges and and the Tamuna tributory near Allahabad a bathing festival in January and February attracts hundreds of thousands of pilgrims


 Taken for a ghat ride

Hindu pilgrims bathing

Abdul-Azeez meditating 

Leaving for Varanasi

Today I leave for the City of Varanasi, located along the west bank of the holy Ganges River. Hindus believe the river fell from heaven to earth when region was in need of water. Bathing in the river is the first thing I will do when I arrive as this is believed to cleanse pilgrims of their sins. Varanasi is the home of God Shiva. What is most special about the city is the belief that every step of it is marked by a linga – a symbol that represents the energy of Shiva. I will walk around the great linga, which is about 40 km long. Abdul- Azeez says this will take us approximately 5 days to complete the holy right. I’m bringing my camera so I can take picture of the beautiful place. I’ll post them when I return.

Day 3

What a great day. Abdul-Azeez invited me to his home for lunch and chai. In his living room was an elaborately decorated shrine, serving as an altar for worship. It was full of copper and marble idols he had collected over his years of travel, and beautiful images of deities. Before we ate we performed puja where we placed flowers and fruit on a tray near the shrine and presented them to the deities. Abdul-Azeez insisted that we did a traditional 16 step puja, because I had never done one fully. We concluded with the waving of the arati around the altar while we both sang verses of praise. Abdul-Azeez gave me the now blessed flowers as Prasad – a gift from the deities back to a devotee. After our worship we talked in the kitchen as he prepared Murg Masala: Indian Chicken Curry. While we talked he told me the meaning of his name, Servant to the mighty, and how he gained inspiration from the teachings of the bhagavad-gita and based his religious ideals on the concepts of dharma, satya, ahimsa, and moksha. When the meal was ready, we sprinkled water around our plates and recited prayer to purify the food. As we ate Abdul-Azeez described to me the correlation between what we eat and our physical and spiritual well being. He said sattvic (pure) food allows for sattvic beings. After all, food is god.
The recipe I snatched for his delicious curry

For the masala:
2 medium onions, finely chopped
2-4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1-inch (2.5 cm) piece of ginger, finely chopped
2 Tbs (30 ml) water
2 tsp (10 ml) ground cumin
2 tsp (10 ml) ground coriander seed
2 tsp (10 ml) salt
1 tsp (5 ml) cayenne pepper, or to taste
1/2 tsp (2 ml) ground turmeric

For the chicken:
4 Tbs (60 ml) vegetable or peanut oil
2-inch (5 cm) piece of cinnamon stick
2-3 lbs (900-1350 g) skinless, boneless chicken breasts,
trimmed of fat and quartered
Juice of 1 lemon
1 cup (250 ml) chicken broth or water
6 whole black peppercorns
Fresh cilantro (coriander leaves) for garnish

Combine all the ingredients for the masala in an electric blender and process until a moist paste is formed.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over moderate heat and add the masala and cinnamon stick.
Cook, stirring frequently, for 6 to 8 minutes.
Add the chicken pieces and stir until they are coated.
Add the lemon juice, chicken broth, and peppercorns and bring to a boil.
Reduce the heat and simmer covered for 15 minutes.
Remove the lid and let the sauce reduce for about 5 minutes.
Remove and discard the cinnamon stick before serving.
Serve with rice, garnished with chopped cilantro.  



Abdul-Azeeez's Puja Room

Day 2

Although the majority of my trip will be spent touring the sacred Ganges River, I wanted to spend the first week touring the local temples. Today I went to Mahalaxmi Temple, one of the most sacred places of worship in Mumbai. The principal deity the temple enshrines is goddess lakshmi, hence the name Mahalakshmi. The Mahalakshmi priest who leads the devotions each day was a pleasant man. I arrived early enough to hear the temple bells, and watch as he offered fresh flowers, incense, and food to the deities. I brought my own bread and milk to share with Vishnu. At the temple I met a swami named Abdul-Azeez. (Swamis, or holy men of India, are experts who have dedicated their lives to meditation.) He just returned from Canada where he was lecturing and teaching. He agreed to show me around Mumbai, and even accompany me to the Ganges. I’m so happy and excited.  

A scanned postcard of Mahalazmi Temple 

Day 1

Before I start my blog, I should give you, my readers, some background information on why I have decided to take this trip. To sum up, I want to immerse myself in a completely foreign culture and fully experience the Hindu religion that I admire.

A long 15 hour flight later, I finally arrived at Delhi airport. Instantly I was struck by the thick smog and humidity. From there I cabbed to my modest flat on Pedder Road, right in the heart of Mumbai. Eager to hit the shops, I dropped my suitcase and set out for the streets. I was drawn to a sari shop, where I purchased a beautiful emerald green one, and a more casual violet one for the days. This will be my uniform for the next month. On my walk home I spotted a beautiful Vishnu idol which I purchased as well. He is preserver of the universe, a loving and forgiving figure who brings salvation. I think about Vishnu when I meditate, as he speaks to me, especially on this trip of spiritual salvation. I’ll get back to you with more real news soon. Goodnight from Mumbai 


 My new friends at the sari shop

Vishnu